Colour me crazy Jumpsuit

Jumpsuits are great to add to your wardrobe, especially plain coloured ones that can be worn with different belts, jackets or shirts. I was not thinking along those lines though. I saw the image of the Burdastyle jumpsuit 02/2013 #124 and I went cooo-coo for colours. I bought the pattern and headed for the shops to find a lovely fabric. Well this is what I found most appealing. It was on display at the local fabric shop because it was the Carnival season here in Trinidad and Tobago; and though I am no fan of the revelry of carnival the vibrancy of the colours draws me. It is a lightweight synthetic fabric that feels quite soft.

My husband refers to the fabric as Mexican Poncho Cloth and we were cracking up about it lots of times while I was constructing the garment. So yes it is a bit loud but I hope it's not too much of a turn off to those who behold it. So far I've not had any negative comments about it. 

I did a tutorial about attaching the binding trim, to the neckline opening and I hope someone finds it useful. 

All is all the jumpsuit was not difficult to make. Luckily for me it was a tall pattern and I only needed to add 1 inch more to the trousers length to fit my almost 6 foot frame. I used a Burdastyle size 76 which is where I fit in. Generally it fits well but the top is quite loose. I suppose I could have taken in about an inch on either side of the side seams of the top for a better fit. However............drum roll...........I am very happy with the outcome!

The biggest challenge was matching the pattern so that my zig-zag lines line up perfectly. One of my peeves is to see poorly lined up plaids, stripes and zig-zags. 
Perhaps I went a bit wild with the fabric choice. What do you think?


Tutorial: Attaching bias binding trim

Today I'm going to go through some steps on the way to attach biased binding trim to necklines, armholes, pocket openings and any other opening you can create or think of. I made one of Burdastyle's jumpsuits (02/2013 #124) from a pattern that called for triming to the edges of the crossover neckline and the pocket openings. I just love how their version turned out and it's probabably what made me buy the pattern :)

Burdastyle 02/2013 #124 Sleeveless jumpsuit

Ideally this pattern calls for the use of 3/8inch wide biased binding. I used a satin binding that has a width of 3/4 inches because I really wanted to use what I had in my cupboard in a bid not to spend too much. I do think it would have turned out better with a smaller width binding though. Nevertheless I'll show you how to attach it with the facing.

I went to the fabric store and saw this number and liked it. It is a bit wild though and it may make it difficult for you to see the wrong side from the right side.  

Step1: Join seams. Here the shoulder seams have been joined and pressed.

Step 2: Pin the bias binding right side facing up to the right side of the fabric. In this case I have joined the binding to the ncekline moving towards the front pieces. Be sure to pin the binding in the right spot allowing for a 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch seam allowance. The fold line of the binding should correspond to the stitch line.

Close up of pinning at the shoulder seam and back neckline

Step 3: Overlay and line up the facing of the garment right sides together with the binding already pinned inbetween.

Stitch 4: Stitch the pieces together being sure to sew in line with where the seam for the binding is lined up. This step is where much care should be taken in execution.
This is what it should look like after stitching. Press open at this point on the wrong side with the allowance pointing upward on the facing side.

Step 5: Turn over to the right side and stitch the allowances down along the facing to prevent the facing from showing in the finished product

Another view of step5

Step 6: Fold the facing backwards at the edge of the binding and pin the other side of the binding down unto the right side being sure to pin to the facing as well
This is a shot of the wrong side of the above step when pinned showing the line of stitching from step 5

Step 7: Stitich a neat line of stitches along the pinned inner edge of the binding. Try to match the thread colour as closely as possible to the binding

The END on the wrong side

The END on the wrong side and right side. Be sure to press flat for a neat final finish
I hope you find the tutorial useful! Feel free to ask questiosn! The actual post about the jumpsuit is coming right up!


New Vogue patterns

I just received some Vogue patterns I bought online a while back during their sale. Excitement!!!!  I am looking forward to trying all of these though it may take  me a while to get to them. I'm especially fond of doing the contrast casual blouses V8855 and the contrast dress V1316. I also got a jacket pattern to make a blazer for my husband but that may take over a year to get started....me first :)  This is my first post using my phone. I hope it was sucessful.


Striped jacket with power shoulders

Power shoulders! Don't you just love the statement it makes? I have a fondness for how these shoulder details are able to create a look that is so stately and strong.

Extended Shoulders Kim Kardashian Tracee Ross Kerry Washington
Power shoulders/ extended shoulders- fashionbombdaily.com

Burdastyle has a guest columnist, Marina von Koenig, who did a great job on a coture top where she modified the sleeve pattern to give statement sleeves. Her article has great references to extravagant sleeves used and made popular by the designers Pieere Cardin, Alexander McQueen and Bottega Veneta; Pattern Making by Tomoko Nakamichi also illustrates a similar sleeve type.

Looking at the pictures and patterns I drafted my own sleeve pattern to creat this look. It's not difficult so I encourage you to have a go at it yourself. Chose any jacket or top pattern and modify the sleeve to create the look. Here is the tutorial.

This is how mine turned out. I must admit that it is a modest version of the ones seen in high fashion. I used a striped poly Ponte knit for the jacket. I think a firmer fabric would have worked better though. I used shoulder pads to define the shape of the shoulder details. I think it may be optional depending on the type of fabric used.

That's my sister modeling for me. Such a good sport!

I hope you liked the post! God bless.


Power shoulders tutorial

Here is the tutorial for creating a simple version of the power shoulders sleeve as I've done for the Striped Jacket project. I hope you find it useful. Please feel free to ask questions if anything is not clear.

Once the sleeve patern has been drafted you can then cut out you jacket or top pattern or choice. 

To construct the sleeve line up the edges corresponding to the blue and green lines on the block above and stich together. Be sure to sew a pointed end at the 'V'. Do this for both sides. 

Stich the tops together (corresponding to the orange lines). You will then end up with a regular sleeve curve to be inserted into the armhole. 

Remember this pattern will work best on fabric of medium to heavy weight. Also dont forget to press the seams as you go along.

Don't forget to share your success with me if you try it out!  

Plain Sleeve drawing obtained from http://sewmanyseams.blogspot.com/2012/01/tulip-sleeve-tutorial.html