Tribal print jumpsuit

Hey all,

I trust all is well with you and yours! Today I just want to show you a recent stitch of a jumpsuit I made and my new hairstyle :) I got to wear this make to an evening recital of one of the loveliest friends of mine. 

This jumpsuit is made from one of the current McCall's patterns released earlier this year. The pattern is M7133 and is one of the Melissa Watson patterns for Palmer/ Pletsch. It' is described as a mock wrap front, wide legged jumpsuit, and is labeled Easy. 

As soon as I saw the pattern I put it down as one to purchase as the breezy and classy look captivated me. I quite like the design of it and it really reminded me of something my mother would have worn in her youth; she was a dresser, still is! I absolutely love the flowy nature of the design and the comfortable fit.

 I found this great rayon print at a local store and it is the most perfect fabric for the design mostly because of the weight and flow of the fabric. It was a bit shifty in the cutting process but wasn't too bad when putting it all together. I stitched up the pattern in a size 10 to the top and graded to 12 at the waist and hips.

 My adjustments:

The pattern comes with these great adjustment lines for a better fit. Normally I curve the waistline at the back and remove about 3/4 inch towards the centre. This pattern had a low placement line so I simple folded at the line to get rid of the excess that would normally give me puckering in the back. I also folded in about half inch at the back neckline for my back curvature.   

 For the pant legs I added 3 inches at the hem to accommodate my longer legs as I am 5'11" tall.

After sewing, but before inserting the zipper, I  removed about an inch from the center back seams at the waist and then graded up and down from there. I realised there was a bit too much extra at the waist and opted to move it from the back rather than the sides. Looking at the photos though I'm seeing a slight ripple across the front so I might have brought it in a we bit too much.  

The back pants legs  pattern piece has a nice curved seam at the derriere and gives a quite flattering look amid the 3 yards of fabric. 

For the armhole edges I made some biased binding and finished it that way instead of using the turned in and under hem as described by the pattern instructions. Binding is always better for curved seams. 

The only real problem I had was going to the toilet as is normally the issue with rompers and jumpers. I almost could not get my zipper back up and my hook and eye fixed, haha. Other than that I really love my jumpsuit and I fully recommend this pattern for creating a breezy onesie that can be made into an elegantly casual or dressy piece.

Thanks for stropping by and God bless!


Birthday dress

Hey guys,
So this year my birthday came and went with much less celebration as last year but I am very happy to celebrate life nonetheless. I am so over the moon and appreciative to God for keeping me going in these tough times worldwide. My heart breaks when I read news with what's happening with the refugees and those in search of a better life, even earthquakes and calamity; I cannot help and be thankful that my situation is better. It hurts when I think that I sit here all happy sewing while others are suffering; I am a deep down humanitarian. God knows I would jump on a plane go to the troubled places and try to save the world but I know I need to think of other ways I can help.....but I digress.

Today I am showing you my birthday dress. I made this dress in this amazing fabric for the little start-up I sew for called Benecaribe. This is one of the many designs that I did the pattern drafting and stitching for. It's a simple racer-back dress in a short length. There is not much trouble in stitching this dress up except for doing the edges at the neckline and armhole.

The fabric is so lovely! This dress is a simple style and it's definitely all about displaying this fabric. It really goes well with my skin tone and I quite like the pattern as well. It reminds me of the radioactivity symbol whereas my husband sees faces....haha

To do the edges I used self made bias binding strips about 1 1/4 inch wide. I first stitched it to the dress right sides together then folded it in half and stitched flat a little way in from the seam edge at the front. It looks great as a finish to sleeveless garments and it's seen a whole lot in ready to wear garments. I think most of the time special machines or machine feet are used to do this though so it's a little challenging to do it with the straight stitch foot/ machine. I'm not sure if there is a special name for this method.

Birthday smile :)

Thanks for stopping by, take care!


All black casual suit

Hey all,

As I start most posts....It has been a while! I am doing fine and I am sewing more than I ever have, just not for myself. I do about 15 items a week for a new line here in Trinidad and Tobago. In the not too distant future though I hope to whip up somethings for myself and to share some ideas I have for the future of Ariation.

Today I just want to share a few pictures of an all black outfit that I made sometime way back. I normally wear them as separates however I found myself wearing them both on this particular day. I really like the look of suits or coordinating pieces and sometimes the best way to do it is in black. The blouse is really a remake from a old favorite I previously had, and the trousers are a Rebecca Taylor  Vogue pants pattern I fell in love with.

The blouse I had was black as well but it was in a much lighter weight fabric, so the pleats sat like a dream and the sleeves gently floated around my arm. The current remake blouse is different all because I used a fabric with less drape and a different composition. When I made this top I really learnt my lesson that you must use the right fabric to achieve a desired outcome. When I finished the top the sleeves stuck out in a strange manner and I wore it like that for some time.  I didn't like the look so I did a fold and tuck with the sleeves, stitched them in place and I ended up with this origami like sleeve.The side view is especially nice.

For the pants I used the Vogue pattern V1357 - Rebecca Taylor . it's a great loose fit pants that can be worn casually or dressed up with heels. It's one of those front drawstring pants but I opted to leave the strings out. My fabric is some sort of crepe, I am not entirely sure, however it was perfect for these pants. This pants fit definitely represents my style and I literally wear them every week. 

The pants pattern has great details with the yoke at the front sides and back as well as a shaped and slitted hemline. Of course I had to lengthen the pants length a few inches well to get the above the ankle length. I also did add a few inches at the inner seat of the back pattern piece for more room for the rear. 

I hope you like it! I'm looking forward to the next post even though I'm not sure what it will be just yet :) Take care and God bless!


Happy New Year & my Leather Jacket

Happy New year to all! I wish and pray that things will go well with you and yours for the year ahead. Of course trials may come and perhaps even devastation but in everything be encouraged and thankful. 

I hope you guys are doing well. I've been busy busy busy with so many projects. Quickly I'll just mention that I am now the key garment constructor for Benecaribe out of Trinidad & Tobago for an up and rising designer, a person I've known for a long time. Check it out! It really feels good to see your work plastered over a website and to see people appreciate the hard work that went into it. 

Anyway I am here to show you my leather jacket that I made recently for a trip to New York. I was of the impression that the wool coat I made late 2013 won't keep me warm enough in NY weather (excuses to make more things of course)

I didn't do my research! Apparently leather is more Fall appropriate and doesn't keep you very warm in Winter. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I already got excited and bought my fabric over at fabric.com; I know absolutely noting about leather and sewing with it but hey I like challenges. This fabric is called Perfection Fused Leather and is described as having a 100% rayon fabric backing and 100% Cowhide face. When I got it I realised that it's very soft and it's not very sturdy or thick and so I needed to make layers. 

I have mostly 3 layers in my jacket and 4 layers at the back yoke; only the sleeves have 2 layers that being the leather and the lining (it shows as it bunches a lot). I decided to do a dip hem or shirt-tail effect as I quite like it and I wanted a bomber jacket neckline as opposed to a traditional collar. I did the pattern design myself and I used the sleeve pattern from my previous coat make. 

Sewing the leather sewing was not a bad experience at all. Fortunately the wrong side of this leather was backed with fabric making it easy for a regular sewing foot to glide over once sewing right sides together. When it was time to top stitch I used some strips of plastic or paper to sew the seams so that the foot will slide over the leather with ease as I did not have the appropriate foot. When the seam was done I just ripped away the strips. I used a number 14 needle of my singer machine and I used glazed thread which is thicker and stronger than regular thread.

Around my neck is a Fux Fur and Ponte big scarf I made to wear around my neck, over my head and to keep my hands toasty. 

I really liked how it turned out and it does the job of keeping me warm without the bulky look. Something about the jacket looks a little slumped backwards causing the sleeves to crunch but I think if I fixed myself prior to the shoot it would have sit better.

Cheers to the scarf that I also put together that made the cold weather very tolerable :) 
His name is Big Fuzzy!

I hope you enjoyed the post and I wish you all blessings for the year ahead. Take care, God bless!