Tutorial: Attaching bias binding trim

Today I'm going to go through some steps on the way to attach biased binding trim to necklines, armholes, pocket openings and any other opening you can create or think of. I made one of Burdastyle's jumpsuits (02/2013 #124) from a pattern that called for triming to the edges of the crossover neckline and the pocket openings. I just love how their version turned out and it's probabably what made me buy the pattern :)

 

Burdastyle 02/2013 #124 Sleeveless jumpsuit

Ideally this pattern calls for the use of 3/8inch wide biased binding. I used a satin binding that has a width of 3/4 inches because I really wanted to use what I had in my cupboard in a bid not to spend too much. I do think it would have turned out better with a smaller width binding though. Nevertheless I'll show you how to attach it with the facing.

I went to the fabric store and saw this number and liked it. It is a bit wild though and it may make it difficult for you to see the wrong side from the right side.  

Step1: Join seams. Here the shoulder seams have been joined and pressed.

Step 2: Pin the bias binding right side facing up to the right side of the fabric. In this case I have joined the binding to the ncekline moving towards the front pieces. Be sure to pin the binding in the right spot allowing for a 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch seam allowance. The fold line of the binding should correspond to the stitch line.

Close up of pinning at the shoulder seam and back neckline

Step 3: Overlay and line up the facing of the garment right sides together with the binding already pinned inbetween.

Stitch 4: Stitch the pieces together being sure to sew in line with where the seam for the binding is lined up. This step is where much care should be taken in execution.

This is what it should look like after stitching. Press open at this point on the wrong side with the allowance pointing upward on the facing side.

Step 5: Turn over to the right side and stitch the allowances down along the facing to prevent the facing from showing in the finished product

Another view of step5

Step 6: Fold the facing backwards at the edge of the binding and pin the other side of the binding down unto the right side being sure to pin to the facing as well

This is a shot of the wrong side of the above step when pinned showing the line of stitching from step 5

Step 7: Stitich a neat line of stitches along the pinned inner edge of the binding. Try to match the thread colour as closely as possible to the binding

The END on the wrong side

The END on the wrong side and right side. Be sure to press flat for a neat final finish

I hope you find the tutorial useful! Feel free to ask questiosn! The actual post about the jumpsuit is coming right up!